Measuring accurately

After a bike fit I am given a diagram of my bike with all the relevant important measurements. The image below is an example of one of my bikes with all the relevant details. 

Now my main concern is I have another bike that I need to set up the same. This needs to be done with precision as I don't want spend good money and time going to the trouble of getting a bike fit and then making mistakes myself when transferring the settings across to my other bike. If you can get your hands on "Bicycling Australia" September-October 2011 magazine there is an article by Steve Hogg about how to do this accurately.  

Making sure my bike is level between the 2 axles is the starting point.

I don't need all the info from the drawing. I'm really only interested in Seat height, Seat Set Back, Seat Nose to handlebar distance, Seat to handlebar drop. There are also a couple of other important things that are not included in the above diagram, Seat angle relative to horizontal and handlebar angle, these are written on a separate form I'm given at the time of the "fit" 
I found an App for my Iphone that turns it into a digital spirit level that is excellent for this and saved me money by not having to purchase a digital level.

Measuring seat angle with my iphone using the TiltMeter app. "I love technology"

Seat Set back is the trickiest to get perfect. I'm getting better at it.

Measuring seat to handlebar drop

Over the past couple of years my position has changed quite a bit. When you add in things like new shoes and pedal system changes performing this procedure accurately is very important. Now I have to get the handlebars on my second bike much lower than previous "fits", this has probably come about by the fact my body is becoming more used to riding and from increased functionality by doing regular stretching, some strength exercises including abdominal muscles. Luckily it's a steel frame and has a little extra Head tube length that can be cut down. The alternative is a -17 degree stem. But this bike has to fit in a S&S travel case and currently I have to take the fork out to make it fit. I'm hoping with the modification to the head tube I'll be able to pack it without fork removal.

I reckon we can cut off 20mm, few extra grams lighter too, a win win situation